By Kathryn Matthews
As the fast-waning days of summer soon shift to autumn, we look forward to tasting the change of seasons at Mercato Osteria & Enoteca, interpreted by chef-owner Francesco Buitoni.
A talented chef who continues to cook at a restaurant he owns—especially after that restaurant achieves success—is a rare breed these days. At some point, the chef-owner usually steps away from the kitchen, assuming more of an operational, managerial or front-of-the-house “host” role. Or, maybe his energies will be diverted to his next venture (new restaurant, cookbook or television show). Over time, the food often falls into a predictable or formulaic rut; it may be just fine—good enough—but not particularly memorable.
Mercato is a notable exception.
It’s been five-and-a-half years since Buitoni and his wife Michelle Platt opened Mercato in the village of Red Hook, Dutchess County. Yet, Buitoni remains a “soul presence” in his kitchen. Meaning…he’s still cooking…and the crowd keeps coming. Perhaps, it’s because you can “taste the love” in his inspired osteria fare. Continue reading
