Vegging Out at Liberty…

By Kathryn Matthews

…is not top-of-mind for most who come here.

At the newish Liberty Public House in Rhinebeck, the red, white and blue-themed décor is eye-catching and fun.  And, on a menu that salutes Americana favorites, the “Liberty Burger with Freedom Fries” gets a whole lot of love.

Sliders? Hot wings?  Liberty’s late night menu (we passed)

As I recount in my RHO review−http://bit.ly/LibertyRvw−the burger, itself, is tasty enough.  The beef patty, sandwiched along with melted Manchego cheese, lettuce and sliced pickle in a soft, squishy, sesame-seeded, white bun, with a side of ketchup is eerily reminiscent of a Big Mac−albeit with real meat.  There are other such retro-themed reincarnations, including Buffalo rock shrimp with blue cheese dip, bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with blue cheese, and fettucini Alfredo—comfort food that ventures into precariously high sodium territory.  As it did with the much touted “Freedom fries”, which Christopher and I found greasy and overly salty.

What I did find unexpectedly appealing and savory, however, contained not a whit of meat: the “stuffed yellow pepper”—even more surprising since I don’t particularly care for bell peppers.  What I tasted was…  Continue reading →

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Off the Beaten Foodie Path: Another Fork in the Road

By Kathryn Matthews

Surprise parties?  Cringe.  Surprise visits (as in “I’m downstairs in the lobby!”)?  Uh-uh. Don’t you dare.  Surprise gifts?  Unless you know my taste and size—I’d rather you didn’t…

Obviously, I’m not big on surprises—unless they’re delicious.

Our recent visit to Another Fork in the Road was just that kind of surprise…

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Sauvignon Standard: Dry Creek Vineyard

By Christopher Matthews

In step with spring’s early arrival, I find myself gravitating towards Sauvignon Blanc.

Sauvignon Blanc

It’s not everybody’s cup of tea, often likened to cat’s pee in its natural, sometimes “wild” (sauvage) pungency. But when not over-cropped, over-oaked or over-ripe, Sauvignon Blanc’s unmistakable aromatics, racy acidity and raucous fruit flavors are refreshing, fun and redolent of spring. On the nose and palate you can get herbs, grass, asparagus and stones, along with a vibrant arc of fruit — from green apples and gooseberries, to grapefruit and guava.

If you are a Sauvignon Blanc fan, the scenario is rosy: good versions come from all corners of the globe, in various styles and price points, from the Loire Valley in France, to New Zealand, South Africa and Chile. But for time-tested excellence — and value — closer to home, Sauvignon Blanc from Dry Creek Vineyard (DCV), located in Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, CA, is a can’t-miss proposition.  Continue reading →

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Hot Off the Press: The Ramps Cookbook…

By Kathryn Matthews

…and we’re in it!

Our photographs of harvesting and preparing ramps at our upstate farmhouse (taken by Christopher) and glimpses of his secret backwoods foraging spot (pages 2-3); and, my ramps recipe, Wok-Braised Ramps, (pages 26-27), are featured in the first-ever ramps cookbook, from St. Lynn’s Press: Ramps: Cooking with the Best Keep Secret of the Appalachian Trail. We’re in mixed ramps-loving, recipe-sharing company — including chefs like Mario Batali, Timothy Wastell and Chris Perkey, foragers and bloggers from around the country. Its pocketbook-size and slimness makes it entirely totable — one you can slip into a backpack or garden bag.  Or, easily prop up in the kitchen for a ramps-inspired meal.

Happy eating!

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Rite of Spring: Ramps Return

By Christopher Matthews

First ramps of the season

On St. Patrick’s Day, tender, emerald green ramp shoots finally peeked out of my special upstate patch, a happy harbinger of spring — and good eating to come.

I’ll check back in a couple of weeks to monitor their progress.  Maybe some will be large enough to  harvest, but, more likely, I’ll have the first good take three weeks from now. Continue reading →

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Spring Into Hudson Valley Delicious

By Kathryn Matthews

Winter 2012 is going out with a whimper—actually, with this week’s temperatures hitting the lows 70s—more like a whisper…  But, hey, all the more reason to step out during Hudson Valley Restaurant Week, which spans seven New York counties, and lasts two full weeks, from March 18th to 31st.

Now in its sixth year, participating restaurants pay tribute to local, seasonal bounty. You’ll have a chance to eat local, drink local and make merry at any one of 200 participating restaurants…  On offer: $20.95 three-course lunches and $29.95 three-course prix fixe dinners.  For more details, see my Red Hook Observer article: Eat Local: It’s Hudson Valley Restaurant Week.

Happy eating!

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Great Quaff Under $10: Chapelle-St-Arnoux Ventoux

By Christopher Matthews

It’s hard to find a decent wine with some character for under $10…but not impossible.

Across a couple of vintages, I have discovered that the Chapelle-St-Arnoux Ventoux is a consistent, tasty quaff, and a gem of a value wine.

2009 Chapelle-St-Arnoux Ventoux

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Cantine Valenti: Stylish Wines from Etna

By Christopher Matthews

Few places in the wine world are as exciting as Sicily.

An island of vines since antiquity, and a vintner’s sun-drenched terroir dream, it has experienced a remarkable revolution toward quality wines in recent years, leaving behind the reputation of cheap bulk wines that once defined Sicily’s copious production.

Of the many favorable spots to grow grapes on Sicily, the most compelling district for me is the Etna DOC, in the shadow of Europe’s tallest — and very active — volcano. Endowed with rich volcanic soils, intense sunlight and cooling sea breezes and altitudes, the cinematic foothills of Etna produce some stunningly good wines from mostly local varieties, namely Nerello Mascalese (red) and Carricante (white).

Mt. Etna in the distance

Being a true Etna fan, when I received a recent invitation to the US debut of Cantine Valenti’s wines, a relatively new winery from that region, I was all in.

Continue reading →

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Tivoli Bread & Baking Scores with Multigrain

By Christopher Matthews

Ace baker Mike Gonella, owner and quarterback of Tivoli Bread and Baking, our go-to bakery upstate, got into the spirit of Super Bowl Sunday today, fashioning his famous multigrain bread into a carb-based football likeness.

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Margaux Meets the (Wine) Press

By Christopher Matthews

At its traditional January Bordeaux lunch last week, the Wine Media Guild (WMG) of New York sampled multiple vintages from two estimable Margaux chateaux, Chateau Rauzan-Ségla and Chateau d’Issan, (second and third growths, respectively, in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification).

The lunch, organized by WMG member Mark Golodetz, stimulated discussion on Bordeaux’s (threatened) status as the wine world’s premier benchmark, while making a great case for the region through the exceptional quality of the assembled wines. Continue reading →

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