Ramp Fest 2013 in Hudson, NY

Posted on May 10, 2013 by upstatedowntown

By Christopher Matthews

Here at Upstate-Downtown, it’s no secret that we’re crazy for ramps — those pungent wild spring onions ripe for picking this time of year. And we’ve written extensively about them, from foraging, preparing and cooking and pairing with wine, to contributing content to the first-ever ramps cookbook.

About the only thing we haven’t done with ramps is to eat our way through the Hudson Valley’s annual culinary tribute to the “wild onion of myth & mystery” — Ramp Fest, in Hudson, NY. Until last week, that is…

100_1567 Continue reading →

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This Spring, Clean Out the Plastics

Posted on March 8, 2013 by upstatedowntown

By Christopher Matthews

“Plastics.”

One of my all-time favorite movie quotes, the famous “one word” of advice for young Benjamin Braddock in “The Graduate”, has only become more prescient over time — plastic rules our modern daily life, on a scale that would have boggled minds back in 1967, when the movie premiered.

BenPlastic

“I want to say one word to you. Just one word.”

Adding to the irony, the ubiquity of plastics comes with a high price tag in terms of health: significant toxic loads, especially in the form of obesogens, chemicals that act like hormones and can promote weight gain.

Plastic containers

As it happens, my wife Kathryn, the co-founder of UpstateDowntown, who is now also a certified health coach (check out her new website: The Nourished Epicurean), has just penned an important piece on the perils of plastics.    Continue reading →

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The Dead Rabbit…Going Live

Posted on February 8, 2013 by upstatedowntown

By Christopher Matthews

As a history buff — not only of 19th century America and the Civil War, but also of libations — I was immediately intrigued by a preview invitation for The Dead Rabbit, a highly anticipated new drinking establishment on Water Street in the Financial District, which has been on the receiving end of glowing pre-opening press.

After trekking to Manhattan’s southern extremity for a sneak peek (and taste),  just before New Year’s, I predict that this will be an evergreen hotspot…be sure to add it to your list of must-visit cocktail parlors. That’s right, I said “parlor”.

Barware, parlor style

Bar ware, parlor style
Photo courtesy Hanna Lee Communications/Andrew Kist

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Healthy Twist for Cocktails: Korean Red Ginseng

Posted on December 13, 2012 by upstatedowntown

By Christopher Matthews

DSCF0689Ginseng, with its herbaceous flavor profile and some new, drink-friendly forms — not to mention its purported healthful attributes — could be the next hot bar ingredient.

At a launch event last week for Korean Ginseng Corp (KGC), three top New York City mixologists — Sother Teague of Amor y Amargo, Lucinda Sterling of Middle Branch and Pamela Wiznitzer of The Dead Rabbit  (opening in January 2013) — concocted some killer ginseng-laced libations at the Empire Room in Manhattan.

 

Bar chef Pam Wiznitzer of The Dead Rabbit

Bar chef Pam Wiznitzer of The Dead Rabbit

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Black Twig: Tennessee Apple, Thriving on the Hudson

Posted on November 13, 2012 by upstatedowntown

By Christopher Matthews

As Thanksgiving approaches, the harvest is winding down quickly in our corner of the Hudson Valley. Looking back, 2012 was mostly a banner year for produce (depending on location, of course — a late frost hit some). Despite being horticultural amateurs, our own Empire apple trees played back this local 2012 success with a copious, high quality yield, without too much fuss. (The Empire apple is a cross between a McIntosh and Red Delicious, designed for NY State by the Cornell folks in 1966. It’s a solid, all-around red apple.)

Our bountiful Empire tree

But for the true farming professionals, like Doug and Talea Fincke of Montgomery Place Orchards, situated favorably near the Hudson River in northern Dutchess County, this year was incredibly bountiful, “one for the ages that we’ll be talking about in our rocking chairs,” said Talea. Especially for apples, one of their main products, representing over 60 different varieties, many of them antique.

Black Twig apples @ Montgomery Place

One of their late-arriving heirloom varieties, the large and comely Black Twig, originally a Tennessee seedling, was a welcome sight at the Montgomery Place farm stand in early November, and especially delicious this year. Continue reading →

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Affordable Bordeaux? You Bet

Posted on October 14, 2012 by upstatedowntown

By Christopher Matthews

For most folks, “Bordeaux” and “affordable” are two words rarely mentioned in the same sentence. Considering the prices (and media ink) that the top Bordeaux wines — the “Grand Cru Classé”— fetch internationally at auction or in wine futures, this is understandable. Beyond the pocketbook of most wine consumers, they run from around $50 a bottle at the lower high-end, to upwards of $1,000 a bottle for one of the hallowed “First Growths” in a great vintage, like 2005 Chateau Margaux.

Yet for all the attention paid to the “classified growths“, they represent only 5% of total Bordeaux production and 10% of total value. In fact, Bordeaux is the largest winegrowing area in France, an enormous production zone covering 60 different appellations, 7,800 winegrowers and 40 cooperatives, and comprising some 40% of French still wine exports (54% of value). Within this prodigious volume, excellent, affordable everyday wines abound, offering a taste of place and natural acidity that make them versatile food companions.

Bordeaux wine region

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Locavore Passion at Murray’s in Tivoli

Posted on September 17, 2012 by upstatedowntown

By Kathryn Matthews

Eating real food that nourishes the body is important to us.  And when we learned that there was a newly installed chef—Amy Lawton—at Murray’s in Tivoli, Dutchess County, we were thrilled.

We’ve often found that women in restaurant kitchens take a more nourishing, balanced and lighter approach to their food. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule—Paula Deen comes to mind. But, try watching Food Network’s “Chopped!” sometime (my guilty pleasure during a treadmill six-miler).  See for yourself how the dishes prepared by the female chef contestants are judged (more accurately, criticized) by a panel of mostly male chefs.  The women chefs are often rebuked—before being eliminated from the next round—for using too little salt, not adding enough fat (or fatty meat), or placing too much emphasis on vegetables or raw greens. Go figure.

So, curious about Lawton—who has cooked at restaurants from Puerto Rico and Providence, to, most recently, Wild Hive Café in Clinton Corners, New York—and her food, we dropped into Murray’s one evening…  Continue reading →

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Despite Tough Vintages, Some Hudson Valley Wines Shine

Posted on September 13, 2012 by upstatedowntown

By Christopher Matthews

In one sense, the 2012 Hudson Valley Wine and Spirits Competition was like Ground Hog Day: as usual, Millbrook Vineyards & Winery  took home multiple honors, winning Winery of the Year, and picking up not only Best White Wine for its 2010 Proprietor’s Special Reserve Chardonnay, but also Best in Show and Best Overall Hudson Valley Wine (made with Hudson Valley fruit).  Clinton Vineyards also won Best Sparkling Wine (its “Jubilee”) for the second year in a row, and Tuthilltown Spirits won Best Spirit again, this time for its Hudson Four Grain Bourbon. (This was the second year that spirits were included in the competition.)

On the other hand, some new players won top honors, too, like Tousey Winery for Best Rosé, and Robibero for Best White Hybrid, both coming from the difficult 2011 growing season, a.k.a. Hurricane Irene’s vintage. Continue reading →

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Roma on the Hudson

Posted on August 30, 2012 by upstatedowntown

By Kathryn Matthews

As the fast-waning days of summer soon shift to autumn, we look forward to tasting the change of seasons at Mercato Osteria & Enoteca, interpreted by chef-owner Francesco Buitoni.

A talented chef who continues to cook at a restaurant he owns—especially after that restaurant achieves success—is a rare breed these days.  At some point, the chef-owner usually steps away from the kitchen, assuming more of an operational, managerial or front-of-the-house “host” role. Or, maybe his energies will be diverted to his next venture (new restaurant, cookbook or television show). Over time, the food often falls into a predictable or formulaic rut; it may be just fine—good enough—but not particularly memorable.

Mercato is a notable exception.

It’s been five-and-a-half years since Buitoni and his wife Michelle Platt opened Mercato in the village of Red Hook, Dutchess County.  Yet, Buitoni remains a “soul presence” in his kitchen.  Meaning…he’s still cooking…and the crowd keeps coming.  Perhaps, it’s because you can “taste the love” in his inspired osteria fare.  Continue reading →

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Spice Rave in Rhinebeck: Cinnamon Indian Cuisine

Posted on August 26, 2012 by upstatedowntown

By Christopher Matthews

The Hudson Valley’s agricultural bounty has attracted many passionate chefs and restauranteurs, who are offering creative farm-to-table cuisine, mostly riffs on classic American, French bistro or Italian.  Yet for other ethnic cuisines in our region, the experience is often underwhelming, lacking both authenticity and imagination, and little or no use of the local produce. Predictable menus with lowest-common denominator choices predominate. You’ve had such dishes—pad thai, beef and broccoli with brown sauce, chicken teriyaki. Hold the MSG, please!

Not at Cinnamon Indian Cuisine, on Rhinebeck’s southern outskirts. Continue reading →

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