Hudson Valley Foraging: Ramps!

By Christopher Matthews

Spring has been a halting, chilly affair in the Northeast this year. Come to think of it, this describes most of the recent springs in our part of the world. But despite the Mud Season’s lack of consistent sun and warmth, there’s one thing I always look forward to in April: foraging for ramps.

Ramps (Allium tricoccum)

A.k.a. wild leeks, and a member of the onion family — imagine a cross between   scallions, leeks and garlic — you can find ramps growing from South Carolina to Quebec, but they are often associated with (and celebrated in) Appalachia as the first, tonic green to eat after the long winter. They are common in the Hudson Valley as well, even growing near roadsides if you look closely (avoid these — they absorb too many toxins from road sludge). And locally, their notoriety is on the rise: on April 30, Rampfest 2011 will take place in Hudson, NY, where Hudson Valley chefs will serve up dishes using the “first forageable green, spring delicacy and wild onion of myth and mystery.”

They have certainly made their way down the mountainside, into the culinary mainstream. Continue reading

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Found @ Omega NYC: Inspiration. Renewal.

By Kathryn Matthews

Where flowers bloom...

On a cold, damp April Fool’s Day, I wasn’t sure what to expect when I arrived at the Sheraton Hotel & Towers in midtown Manhattan for the kick-off evening of “A Time of Renewal”, a three-day annual conference, hosted by the Omega Institute for Holistic Studies, a Hudson Valley nonprofit, educational retreat center, based in Rhinebeck, N.Y.

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Saddle Up: Paso Robles Wines + Steakhouse Chow

By Kathryn Matthews

Paso Robles

Perhaps it shouldn’t come as a surprise that Paso Robles, a former ranching town turned fashionable winemaking region, can produce wines that go down easy with steakhouse fare.

It’s the reason why, on a recent school night, my husband and I headed to Gramercy Park for a tasting of recent releases from Paso Robles wine country at BLT Prime.

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Blockbuster Homage from Tablas Creek

By Christopher Matthews

At our recent Paso Robles wine dinner at BLT Prime, all four wines poured that evening were excellent, as Kathryn reported, but one wine in particular — the 2007 Tablas Creek “Esprit de Beaucastel” Rouge — simply floored us.

2007 "Esprit de Beaucastel"

Jointly owned by the Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands, Tablas Creek was established in Paso Robles in 1989 due to its geologic and climatic similarities to the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CNP) appellation in France’s southern Rhone region. The aim: to make California wines in the same styles and quality as CNP.

Two decades (and change) later, the 2007 Esprit, the “hommage”,  just might have surpassed the original role model. Continue reading

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Simple Sunday Roast Chicken

By Kathryn Matthews

All-natural Northwind Farms roast chicken

"Perfect" looking? No. Delicious? Yes...a "10"!

When I don’t want fancy, and I don’t want to fuss, my go-to Sunday supper is roast chicken.  Much ado has been made about the “perfect” roast chicken.  How long to roast, and at what temperature?  How to achieve tender, juicy meat?  The best rub or marinade?  How to achieve golden brown, crisped skin?  And so on.

When the bar for perfection is so high, who wouldn’t be intimidated?!

Roasting a chicken shouldn’t be a complicated affair.  You don’t need a lot of gadgetry or encyclopedic knowledge about fancy techniques.  It’s less important that a roast chicken look like a food stylist’s dream for a magazine cover than that it actually tastes delicious.

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Heirloom Vintages from California’s Centenary Wineries

By Christopher Matthews

This April, history is very much on our minds, prompted by the sesquicentennial of the US Civil War, and the 50th anniversary of the first man in space, Colonel Yuri Gagarin.

On April 6, history was also the theme at a Wine Media Guild (WMG) of New York tasting and lunch celebrating California’s Centenary Wineries. Organized by San Francisco-based WMG member Deborah Parker Wong (who unfortunately could not attend), the event was a fascinating time-travel tour of California winemaking via older vintages and some new releases from six iconic wineries (some predating The War Between the States!): Beaulieu Vineyard (established in 1900), Buena Vista (1857), Charles Krug (1861), Gundlach Bundschu (1858), Schramsberg (1862), Simi (1876) and Wente (1883). Continue reading

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Feast on Happy Fowl (not Foul Chicken)

By Kathryn Matthews

Happy fowl

Early spring in New York can be wet and wild, fluctuating between cold and mild; snow and rain.  The weather is raw, biting, often accompanied by windy lashings.

As my body struggles to adjust to a season in transition, I often find myself flagging—low energy and fatigued.  It’s no wonder then that, this time of year, I crave chicken.

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Not Your Average Pinot Grigio

By Christopher Matthews

Pinot Grigio

We import more Pinot Grigio into this country than any other varietal wine, almost a quarter of the total, with some 90% of it coming from Italy. Despite our obvious, collective thirst for the grape, however, it has a bad (and often deserved) rap: a thin, easy, vaguely citrusy, swimming pool-sort-of-wine. Banal. Bland. Brainless. Savaged by critics. Etc.



But the pink-skinned Pinot Grigio, a.k.a. Pinot Gris, Rulaender and Grauburgunder (among others), and a likely mutation of Pinot Noir, is capable of spicy substance and excellence in the right hands and locations, most notably in places like Alsace, Oregon, New Zealand and, yes, Italy, particularly from its northernmost region, the Alto-Adige. Continue reading

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Rain Art Eat

By Kathryn Matthews

It was Thursday evening, March 10th.  I was headed out to an opening reception at Denise Bibro Fine Art gallery in west, west Chelsea for our friend Daniel Borlandelli, a visual artist from Uruguay.  As I stepped outside our building, a powerful gust blew my $4 umbrella inside-out, immediately drenching me in a torrent of hard-pelting rain.

I couldn’t help but wonder if Daniel was psychic.

His exhibit, entitled Vendaval, which refers to a powerful wind—south by west—in late winter or early spring, typically accompanied by thunderstorms and violent squalls, aptly captured his opening night.

"Vendaval"

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Charms of an Old Farmhouse: Basement Flood!

By Christopher Matthews

As soon as I saw my neighbor’s number appear on my office phone on the morning of  March 11, I knew what had happened: water in the basement!

Not ours, but similar

While old farmhouses have a romantic ring, and certainly have their charms, they require tons of work, patience and good luck, because many things go wrong, like water seeping (or pouring) in through a stone foundation — and not for the first time.  Continue reading

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